Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Schools Provide Hope

In August, in a post entitled “Differing Worlds” I shared my dismay about the students’ living environments. For a cost of $10,000 permanent dormitory buildings, meaning ones made of bricks, with real windows, solid doors, smooth floors and lockers for the students’ belongings that can house all of the boarding students attending Kimori Academy. If these buildings can be built, students will have warmth/shelter from the rain, no ants, better beds and security, a place to keep their things rather than storing them on their beds or hanging trunks from the ceiling rafters above them and overall more comfort and better hygiene. I would like to challenge you to help make new dormitories a reality. By going to kimorischools.org you may go to the “Donate” page and make a financial donation. Feel free to contact those in charge of the school via the email addresses listed on the website to learn more about Kimori Academy or to make a specific request that your donation be used for building the dormitories.

This is the current situation in the dormitories:

Below are some students carrying their desks back to class after an outdoor assembly.
These are some of my 6th graders.

A Glimpse of My Kenyan Life

Tea Plantation...

Friends...

A pit-latrine...



Cooking ugali with the big big mwiko...

It’s Not Always Easy

Like all things in life, traveling and living in a new culture has its pros and cons. While I’ve been warmly welcomed and could not ask for more hospitality and am blessed with this opportunity to really learn about other people, myself, and this world, I’ve also faced numerous challenges.

Coming here, I knew very little of what to expect. Were it not for a few friends familiar with this part of the world, I would have been even more ignorant upon my arrival. It can be difficult to establish a life in a place where you don’t know anyone. This is even truer, when the culture is unfamiliar. A lack of understanding and ability to speak the first and second languages of nearly everyone I interact with (Kalenjin and Swahili) has added yet another layer to the challenges of communicating, building relationships and being productive in a new community. Although I’m learning both languages, it’s a struggle at times and can be frustrating to not understand something that is going on that everyone else does understand. It may happen when there is danger. It may happen when something is funny. It may also happen that plans are changed and I never find out about it.

Being white has its advantages in that I’m easily recognizable as a visitor and therefore often warmly received. Yet; my appearance also creates problems. Being viewed as a visitor means I’m always an outsider. I’m usually perceived to have money…meaning prices are increased for me, or I may be followed or harassed. People assume that along with this perceived wealth, I also cannot work and tire easily. (That is insulting to me and hard to deal with). People can spot the muzungu from great distances and come to stare. I’m under constant surveillance and scrutiny. People often think I have a lot of power and are asking things (often unreasonable) of me.

I am more educated than the majority of the people around me, so they are often unable to understand certain things, reason some things out and see things from perspectives other than their own. It can be a struggle to learn to fit into new gender roles and also to have no one who can see and understand my perspectives, because they know nothing of my culture. This is particularly hard, when there are multiple ways of doing something, and ethnocentricity allows everyone else to believe that there is only one way to do something and that since I may do it differently, that my way is wrong.

Sometimes I want nothing more than to talk to someone at home, to know how things are with them, to just speak English as quickly as I wish without anyone struggling to understand me. Home is time-zones away and lives are busy, so it’s hard to make connections.

Another challenge is to go from being very independent to forced dependency. Food seems like such a trivial matter, but not being able to decide what to eat, how much food to put on the plate (because I’ve already been served) or how much sugar I want in my tea is tough. When I have little control over things, because I’ll be overcharged when I make purchases alone or because I don’t know how certain societal institutions function or for any other reason, it is a moment to practice patience and being pleasant, even when I want no more food, when I’m tired or feeling sick or annoyed. Patience is truly a virtue.

Despite these struggles, I am blessed to be here, to be surrounded by wonderful people, to have a support network, and to be learning.

Story Time

With a rich culture of story-telling, I’ve heard several stories here. Oftentimes in the evenings while preparing supper or after eating (although my experiences suggest that far more often people go to bed almost immediately after eating supper) family members share stories. These stories are often myths dealing with animals or sometimes tales about other tribes. Having spent a few months here, I have some stories of my own. Some are funny; however, others are more serious. I’m so thankful for some of them, yet I wish others were myths. And I begin….

It should be no surprise that bathrooms and toilets may be in short supply. Thus, the pit latrine (aka out house) is a typical feature in a yard. Some are made of mud, others are less lovely, like some slick boards placed over a hole, with a few boards around it with gaping holes in between. If something falls out of your pocket, don’t ever expect to see it again. As for bathrooms, well, sometimes they exist and sometimes they don’t. Some streams are for women; others are for men. And sometimes, well, I’ve found the space between a mud home and a few rows of maize for bathing with a bucket. Life is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you gonna get.

One rainy day, three of my host siblings and I decided to visit a water treatment plant. Immediately upon our arrival at the plant, children of course appeared out of nowhere. They came near staring at me, although they were too shy to speak directly to me or to shake my hand. We inquired about the best way to reach cascades and were directed to a footpath. Neno and I in our skirts and Willie and Amos in their dress pants, began to descend the sloped path. We’d barely begun when we began to slide. I’m quite certain that my shoes had the worst traction, but regardless, it was as if we were skiing down the slope trying not to fall. The children were howling behind us with laughter at the top of the hill and we were laughing so hard as we struggled to maintain our balance. We all made it without falling and as we returned, we discovered a road, meaning we’d never have had to come down that slope in the first place! :) Those children sure had their fun, but so did we.

Once upon a time there was an 8-year old girl who'd grown up in a rural area and had never been to town before. I had the opportunity to take this girl to town for her very first time. With fascination, her mouth hanging open and her eyes huge, she was turning this way and that watching people, seeing so many vehicles. She feared the vans and had no idea why she was supposed to hold my hand when going places. We went into a hotel (restaurant) here to eat and she had no idea that they served food and how/what to eat there. After ordering food for her she sat there gobbling it up, unsure of what to make of the situation. Her experience was crowned with a soda. She's been living happily ever after, remembering the big vehicles, the soda and the many people and tall buildings.

Coming from the US and having only known women named Hillary, I was startled on the first day of class when I was returning exercise books and wanting to learn the students’ names, so called them out myself so as to identify them. When I called “Hillary” a boy stood up. I tried to change the pronunciation, but it was still the same kid. As it turns out, everyone here finds it very funny that (according to them) Hillary Clinton has a man’s name.

One dark night, not long ago, the market in Mogogosiek (the nearby town) caught fire and most of it was destroyed, because the nearest fire department had to travel a few hours to arrive. Sometimes people here are very honest, but as with everywhere, you can find those who aren’t. The owner of a shoe shop was through his shoes out to try to save them and people were running up and stealing them. How sad!
A baby girl was born to my oldest host brother and his wife. As Kipsigis culture mandates, the wife must stay with her child at her mother-in-law’s house for a minimum of 7 days and is not allowed to leave the compound. Any deviation from this can cause a host of negative feelings and opinions.

“I do…not.” He sure moves fast. Upon meeting me, he (a friend of a friend) actually thought I was our friend’s wife. I set him straight immediately. Yet within five minutes, he’d gone from thinking I was married to asking to marry me so that he could go to the US. Nice try buddy.

There was once a girl, who disliked giving speeches very much and would get very nervous and even begin to choke when she had to speak publicly. In high school, she dreaded doing speech and would forget everything and be unable to speak if she was not holding a notecard with every last thing written down. In the last few months, she’s given numerous unexpected and impromptu speeches without notes to groups of more than 500 people. We can all change. We can all change this world.

Monday, September 10, 2012

Moments with my Kenyan family





Debunking Beliefs About the Dowry

One of my host brothers will be getting married in a few months. The Kipsigis, as do all Kenyan tribes, have some form of dowry that is paid by the groom’s family to the bride’s family. During these past weeks, the dowry negotiations, viewing of the dowry and celebration of it have taken place.

When I came here, I had an ethnocentric and negative perspective of the dowry system, that I would venture to guess I shared with many Americans—a view that a dowry was demeaning by comparing a woman to animals or whatever the “payment” was and a way of buying her. While I still do not care for the way it is always phrased that “a woman is married off”, I have come to see the dowry in a new light.

Among the Kipsigis cattle are the central part of the dowry, as those animals have played an important role in this culture over the centuries. The negotiations take place at the bride’s home. Only the men are allowed to be present…meaning the fathers and uncles of the two who are to be married (The groom is excluded). Shortly after an agreement has been reached, the bride’s father and uncles go to the home of the groom to see the items that have been promised. At this gathering, the groom is also present and many speeches are given. They will also eat at the home in celebration.

This weekend, more than 20 men were at the home for this event. Women are also not present for this part of the marriage ritual. I was moved in and out of the kitchen with the other women, preparing food and washing dishes, while peeking out the window to see how the event was carrying on. In this particular event, a bull, a cow and two calves, along with three sheep and some money were offered.

At the end of the ceremony during the farewell speeches, I was invited along with the mother, grandmother and an aunt to join them. Each person expressed gratitude towards the other side and praised God for the relationships being formed. They also made a point to explain that the dowry is not a way of buying her, but a way of expressing gratitude to her family for allowing her to become a part of the groom’s family…a token of appreciation.

After seeing the dowry, the bride’s family may come at any time to take it with them. The dowry will then go to her parents. Then the women…the mothers and aunts can celebrate themselves on one day.

Although I find the customs a bit constraining and formal, I’m learning to see them in a new way, as a gentle and humble action, rather than a hard one.


The young bull

one of the sheep

the speeches

more of the meeting

closing with tea after the bride's representatives have left

The Things She Carried

Many women here are very strong. They have to be. Gender roles are very distinct with men supposed to provide for the family, do fencing, look after animals and plow (with oxen). Meanwhile, women are expected to do all the household dishes (including washing dishes and clothes by hand, cooking over a fire, and cleaning), as well as child rearing, working in the shamba, milking the cows, fetching water, chopping and carrying firewood. Each person has a story and I am blessed to be learning some of them. Here are a few pictures I’ve gathered of the things women carry:








Not hats on their heads or backpacks on their backs, but sufuria's of vegetables, basins of grass, buckets of water, avocados, potatoes, and firewood... to name a few things. (Suitcases, milk, tea, and pineapples should also be added to the list; these things often with a child strapped to her back and maybe some things in her hands as well.

Visa…

As in Germany, I got to spend hours in an immigration office, queuing and filling out forms, being finger printed, photographed, interrogated, etc. To get most of the way through the process for a temporary visa, which will once again need renewed, plus get the joy of returning to the capital city to collect a registered alien card once it has been processed. Some differences between here and Germany: In Germany there is much more organization and people are better at estimating time. Here most of the employees were friendly or at least acted cheerful and all the people waiting love to talk, so the wait was more pleasant.