Monday, October 8, 2012

Photos of the Month


Making Chapati With My Sisters


Gotta Have One of These



Trying to pluck tea with some professionals J


I got to see the entire process of brick making from digging a hole, filling it with water, soaking earth, then placing sod upside down on top, cutting the soil, forming the brick in a box, letting them dry in the sun and be ready to burn. 

Giving a Speech at a Funeral

Kericho Life


A British Tea Plantation Near Kericho

Building Relationships


One of the more challenging yet rewarding endeavors in a new place (especially in a different country) is meeting people and establishing a social network.  Out of all the places I’ve traveled, Kenya has been the easiest in this respect; however, it still takes a great deal of effort.

Throughout my first term in school, I didn’t feel like I belonged.  People were polite and helpful, but I didn’t understand how the system worked and I knew little Kiswahili, so missed out on a lot of the conversations.  This term though, I feel like part of the staff.  I know how things work, understand much more Kiswahili and Kalenjin, so am more aware of what is going on and can make jokes with my colleagues.  I can also call children to bring me tea or wash my cup for me…something normal/expected here, but that I found really hard to do for a long time.  It’s still not easy, but I’m getting used to it.   

On the roads, I now meet people who I know.  It’s nice to be able to greet familiar faces on my way to or from school or between home and town.  I must admit, I do get tired of having people still come to the road and stare and call “Chepchumindet”. 

This last week I was in Kericho and I met people I’d met in distant places like Kisumu and Nairobi.  It was such a nice surprise to see people that I’d remembered and who knew me and to chat a few moments with them.  Running into acquaintances always makes me feel more like I’m really living here.  Sometimes though, I meet someone who seems friendly at first…and I’m sure he is, but takes it too far to the point that they become a pest. 

Other times incidents can act as bonding experiences like attending a funeral and just spending time singing, dancing, cooking, washing utensils and telling stories around the fire.  Or being with some friends when a drunkard demands money from the muzungu and tries to beat me with a stick, but then is handcuffed and arrested.  I was thankful to have been with friends and for their advice about what sort of disciplinary action to request when filing a report at the police station. 

I feel like I’m finally successfully establishing a life here with friends, work, mundane activities, and mere acquaintances.  Life’s about finding people who let you be you and make the ordinary things more fun.  It can be challenging, but the rewards are worth it.  

A Land of Magic


I’ve never had much of an interest in fantasy stories and tales of magical places like Harry Potter, Lord of the Rings or King Arthur, but here it seems as if such an education might prove useful.  Magic and superstitions play a big role in guiding people’s behavior and decisions.  Below are a few things I’ve noticed, and I’m sure that is just the surface, especially since I don’t speak the local language, so miss out on a lot.

*Sweeping at night invites evil into the house.
*Stepping over a pumpkin can make it dry up.
*A few years back, a woman in this village was struck by lightning while fetching water.  Because she died in such a way, the majority of the villagers believe she was a witch. 
*A woman living near Mau Forest is believed to be a devil-worshipper by nearly all of the people in her area.  She waters mushrooms daily that she grows in containers outside her house.  They claim that she uses the mushrooms as medicine and can also poison a person with them, if she wishes to curse them.  Her house was even burned because of this.  People claim it is definitely true because a crow came and nabbed a mushroom, rescuing it from the flames.     
(Seems like witch trials and accusations in the U.S. a few centuries back). 
*If devil worshippers come visit your home, your crop or milk production will decrease or your clever children will become poor students. 
*Many people swear that if people quarrel about a boundary, lightning will come to settle the boundary dispute, scorching the earth in a line where the fence posts ought to be placed.  Likewise when people quarrel, lightning will appear in the shape of a cock with an axe in the sky.
*The Kisiis are said to be night runners.  According to the people around here, this means that they run naked at night and can be on one ridge, but if you reach there trying to capture them, they will suddenly be on the other ridge of the hills.  They are also said to ride people’s dogs at night and so you may find your dog sleeping all day.  A Night Runner’s wife is supposed to keep her feet on the fire and only eat warm food.  If she removes her feet or eats leftovers, he will be caught.
*According to the Kipsigis here, the Luos practice a lot of witchcraft, making it undesirable to eat in someone else’s home, because you may be poisoned.  I asked one of my Luo colleagues about it and he claims it’s true and that when travelling you cannot look nice or you must travel at night.  If you appear successful, someone will become jealous and curse you.  This may mean losing one’s wealth or going mad. 
*Also, there is a man around here who let his wife make a decision about when to return to their home after staying with relatives.  Because he didn’t make the decision and “followed” her home, there was a lot of talk with people insisting that she must have given him traditional medicine: a “love-potion” even, to make him behave in such a way.

With all these notions, life is always interesting.  They can’t easily be dismissed.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Schools Provide Hope

In August, in a post entitled “Differing Worlds” I shared my dismay about the students’ living environments. For a cost of $10,000 permanent dormitory buildings, meaning ones made of bricks, with real windows, solid doors, smooth floors and lockers for the students’ belongings that can house all of the boarding students attending Kimori Academy. If these buildings can be built, students will have warmth/shelter from the rain, no ants, better beds and security, a place to keep their things rather than storing them on their beds or hanging trunks from the ceiling rafters above them and overall more comfort and better hygiene. I would like to challenge you to help make new dormitories a reality. By going to kimorischools.org you may go to the “Donate” page and make a financial donation. Feel free to contact those in charge of the school via the email addresses listed on the website to learn more about Kimori Academy or to make a specific request that your donation be used for building the dormitories.

This is the current situation in the dormitories:

Below are some students carrying their desks back to class after an outdoor assembly.
These are some of my 6th graders.

A Glimpse of My Kenyan Life

Tea Plantation...

Friends...

A pit-latrine...



Cooking ugali with the big big mwiko...

It’s Not Always Easy

Like all things in life, traveling and living in a new culture has its pros and cons. While I’ve been warmly welcomed and could not ask for more hospitality and am blessed with this opportunity to really learn about other people, myself, and this world, I’ve also faced numerous challenges.

Coming here, I knew very little of what to expect. Were it not for a few friends familiar with this part of the world, I would have been even more ignorant upon my arrival. It can be difficult to establish a life in a place where you don’t know anyone. This is even truer, when the culture is unfamiliar. A lack of understanding and ability to speak the first and second languages of nearly everyone I interact with (Kalenjin and Swahili) has added yet another layer to the challenges of communicating, building relationships and being productive in a new community. Although I’m learning both languages, it’s a struggle at times and can be frustrating to not understand something that is going on that everyone else does understand. It may happen when there is danger. It may happen when something is funny. It may also happen that plans are changed and I never find out about it.

Being white has its advantages in that I’m easily recognizable as a visitor and therefore often warmly received. Yet; my appearance also creates problems. Being viewed as a visitor means I’m always an outsider. I’m usually perceived to have money…meaning prices are increased for me, or I may be followed or harassed. People assume that along with this perceived wealth, I also cannot work and tire easily. (That is insulting to me and hard to deal with). People can spot the muzungu from great distances and come to stare. I’m under constant surveillance and scrutiny. People often think I have a lot of power and are asking things (often unreasonable) of me.

I am more educated than the majority of the people around me, so they are often unable to understand certain things, reason some things out and see things from perspectives other than their own. It can be a struggle to learn to fit into new gender roles and also to have no one who can see and understand my perspectives, because they know nothing of my culture. This is particularly hard, when there are multiple ways of doing something, and ethnocentricity allows everyone else to believe that there is only one way to do something and that since I may do it differently, that my way is wrong.

Sometimes I want nothing more than to talk to someone at home, to know how things are with them, to just speak English as quickly as I wish without anyone struggling to understand me. Home is time-zones away and lives are busy, so it’s hard to make connections.

Another challenge is to go from being very independent to forced dependency. Food seems like such a trivial matter, but not being able to decide what to eat, how much food to put on the plate (because I’ve already been served) or how much sugar I want in my tea is tough. When I have little control over things, because I’ll be overcharged when I make purchases alone or because I don’t know how certain societal institutions function or for any other reason, it is a moment to practice patience and being pleasant, even when I want no more food, when I’m tired or feeling sick or annoyed. Patience is truly a virtue.

Despite these struggles, I am blessed to be here, to be surrounded by wonderful people, to have a support network, and to be learning.

Story Time

With a rich culture of story-telling, I’ve heard several stories here. Oftentimes in the evenings while preparing supper or after eating (although my experiences suggest that far more often people go to bed almost immediately after eating supper) family members share stories. These stories are often myths dealing with animals or sometimes tales about other tribes. Having spent a few months here, I have some stories of my own. Some are funny; however, others are more serious. I’m so thankful for some of them, yet I wish others were myths. And I begin….

It should be no surprise that bathrooms and toilets may be in short supply. Thus, the pit latrine (aka out house) is a typical feature in a yard. Some are made of mud, others are less lovely, like some slick boards placed over a hole, with a few boards around it with gaping holes in between. If something falls out of your pocket, don’t ever expect to see it again. As for bathrooms, well, sometimes they exist and sometimes they don’t. Some streams are for women; others are for men. And sometimes, well, I’ve found the space between a mud home and a few rows of maize for bathing with a bucket. Life is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you gonna get.

One rainy day, three of my host siblings and I decided to visit a water treatment plant. Immediately upon our arrival at the plant, children of course appeared out of nowhere. They came near staring at me, although they were too shy to speak directly to me or to shake my hand. We inquired about the best way to reach cascades and were directed to a footpath. Neno and I in our skirts and Willie and Amos in their dress pants, began to descend the sloped path. We’d barely begun when we began to slide. I’m quite certain that my shoes had the worst traction, but regardless, it was as if we were skiing down the slope trying not to fall. The children were howling behind us with laughter at the top of the hill and we were laughing so hard as we struggled to maintain our balance. We all made it without falling and as we returned, we discovered a road, meaning we’d never have had to come down that slope in the first place! :) Those children sure had their fun, but so did we.

Once upon a time there was an 8-year old girl who'd grown up in a rural area and had never been to town before. I had the opportunity to take this girl to town for her very first time. With fascination, her mouth hanging open and her eyes huge, she was turning this way and that watching people, seeing so many vehicles. She feared the vans and had no idea why she was supposed to hold my hand when going places. We went into a hotel (restaurant) here to eat and she had no idea that they served food and how/what to eat there. After ordering food for her she sat there gobbling it up, unsure of what to make of the situation. Her experience was crowned with a soda. She's been living happily ever after, remembering the big vehicles, the soda and the many people and tall buildings.

Coming from the US and having only known women named Hillary, I was startled on the first day of class when I was returning exercise books and wanting to learn the students’ names, so called them out myself so as to identify them. When I called “Hillary” a boy stood up. I tried to change the pronunciation, but it was still the same kid. As it turns out, everyone here finds it very funny that (according to them) Hillary Clinton has a man’s name.

One dark night, not long ago, the market in Mogogosiek (the nearby town) caught fire and most of it was destroyed, because the nearest fire department had to travel a few hours to arrive. Sometimes people here are very honest, but as with everywhere, you can find those who aren’t. The owner of a shoe shop was through his shoes out to try to save them and people were running up and stealing them. How sad!
A baby girl was born to my oldest host brother and his wife. As Kipsigis culture mandates, the wife must stay with her child at her mother-in-law’s house for a minimum of 7 days and is not allowed to leave the compound. Any deviation from this can cause a host of negative feelings and opinions.

“I do…not.” He sure moves fast. Upon meeting me, he (a friend of a friend) actually thought I was our friend’s wife. I set him straight immediately. Yet within five minutes, he’d gone from thinking I was married to asking to marry me so that he could go to the US. Nice try buddy.

There was once a girl, who disliked giving speeches very much and would get very nervous and even begin to choke when she had to speak publicly. In high school, she dreaded doing speech and would forget everything and be unable to speak if she was not holding a notecard with every last thing written down. In the last few months, she’s given numerous unexpected and impromptu speeches without notes to groups of more than 500 people. We can all change. We can all change this world.