An Amazon Adventure

On Thursday afternoon I met 4 friends, Amelia, Annie, Audrey, and Chris at the university before we headed to the airport together. Along the way, we had a talkative and friendly taxi driver who of course chatted with us about all the great Peruvian foods. The sky was grey and the weather quite chilly, so we all wore some sort of jacket. We went through the extremely lax security and boarded our plane and flew over the Andes at sunset to Iquitos, the world's largest city without a connection to other cities by land.

The hot humid air was a shock to the system as we departed from the plane. We were met by two individuals from our tour guide company. As often happens here, things are not as we may expect so we have to be flexible and change our plans. The hostel that we had reserved, was full- meaning our reservations had not been held, so our tour guide helped us find a different hostel. It turned out to cost only $2 more per night and was much nicer and we even had a kitchen to cook in. :)

Friday morning we set out for the jungle (the Amazon Rainforest), first by car for 1.5 hours to the town of Nauta and then a few hours by boat along the Marañon River, one of the Amazon River's two largest tributaries, later the Yarapa river and eventually arrived at the lodge on the Cumaceba River. The boat is called a peke peke for the sound that its motor makes. During the afternoon we took a walk through the jungle near the lodge. We learned a lot about the plants and animals during this time. Later we took a ride in the peke peke to a nearby indigenous village that the tour company helps to support.

It was already dark by the time we returned to the lodge so we had a candle on our floor for light. Amelia took a flashlight with her into the bathroom to brush her teeth and when she turned it on, she saw a spider with a four inch diameter from the tip of the legs to the others. Then we realized there were more. It was a little unsettling. Chris was kind enough to do the deed of either chasing the spiders away or capturing the spider under a cup and carrying it outside. The mosquito nets over our beds seemed all the more comforting.

We awoke with the sun shortly after 5 on Saturday morning in order to go bird watching, We saw many birds with all different colors, shapes, and sizes. Traveling on the river with the morning fog and sunrise was gorgeous. We later took a long walk through the jungle where we were able to see many species of plants and animals including monkeys and a rubber tree.

On several different trees we witnessed highways created by ants carrying leaves down the trees to their homes. It was very interesting. We put our hands in a termite nest and rubbed crushed termites all over ourselves because they are supposedly a natural mosquito repellent. Unfortunately they didn't seem to work for me, but neither did the bug spray. I got eaten alive as did the other girls. We drank from a fruit called te yarina and also the water from a vine known as "uña del gato" (cat claw). During the afternoon we took a boat ride and saw spider monkeys along the way. We jumped off of the peke peke and went swimming in the Amazon with pink dolfins. I must admit, although the water was very still and nice and warm, I didn't stay in the water long for fear of drowning. That was very neat and a highlight for all of us. At night we went for a night hike, on which our guide caught a frog the size of my head. It was so cool. Although very interesting, the night hike was not super enjoyable because of the swarms of mosquitos.

Sunday morning we went to an island where a monkey lives and likes to eat fish that some local boys catch and throw to him. We fished some. I caught nothing, but some of our group caught piranas and others caught catfish. One little boy who was fishing in his tiny wooden boat caught a stingray!

In the afternoon we left to go camping. We got to the place in the jungle were we set up hammocks, mosquito nets, and tarps by tying things to the trees with vines. The mosquitos were so awful. Due to rain, we were not able to do nearly what we had hoped or intended to do. We went spear-fishing for a little bit, but did not get to see any caman.

On Monday morning, we packed up the hammocks and took the peke peke back to the lodge. After breakfast we went to see a family of monkeys and also to see an enormous tree that is estimated to be about 50 meters tall.

Later that day we returned to Iquitos, each took a much needed shower and then went out to eat icecream for supper. Afterwards we stopped at a grocery store to get supplies for breakfast.

Tuesday morning we prepared a delicious breakfast and went for a walk through the city market, wandered around some more, ate icecream for dinner, watched the Spanish and Portugual world cup game and Pan's Laberynth before heading to the airport to return to Lima. The weather is cold here again unfortunately.

It was a great trip. I only have 1.5 weeks remaining in Lima!

Some of the richest people I've met here live in shacks...

Volunteering at the center for homework help and preschool, Deporte y Vida, in Villa El Salvador has been and extremely impacting and influential experience for me during this semester.

I've continued to help the kids with their homework twice a week. One thing that seems really unfortunate to me is that although some of them really want to learn, they do not have the resources. Either they have poor teachers, do not have books, or lack the time to do the work. Sometimes kids come to Deporte y Vida and drop off their homework, while they go home to cook for their family or care for younger siblings or such and return later hoping that someone has completed it for them. While the children are silly like other kids that I know and love to play, they seem to be more aggressive and also they are wise beyond their years. It is a bit odd to see children acting like adults a such young ages, but I believe that is the result of their environment.

We were asked to paint a mural of nature on the the outer walls of the "baño seco" (dry bathroom) of the school. We drew a picture with a pond, bushes, a tree, mountains, flowers, a dragon fly, fish, butterfly, bird's nest, and chickens. The colors are quite vibrant. The children were so impressed and just watched us with enthusiasm the whole time. We wanted to let them help, but we were lacking in supplies and if we let one help they would all have wanted too and that would not have worked. Possibly they can each paint a flower the last day if they want to or something like that. Unfortunately after we finished for the day and were cleaning up, some of the kids' excitement and curiousity got the best of them, causing them to run up to the wall and touch the paint leaving handprints in our work or peeling off nearly dry paint.

I went to a hardware store the evening before, and bought several colors of paint, paint thinner and a few brushes. We didn't have containers to mix paints in, nor did I think to purchase stir sticks. I'll have to get a few other things for this next week to finsh the project. My hands are green and blue and it is really awkward doing things in public with hands that look like the Hulk's. People look at me wierd, as if my hands are really dirty, which I understand, but they are just stained.

We have only painted one day so far. When we finished painting, the teachers and Señor Victor who maintains the place, so very kindly wanted to share their food, Papa a la Huancaina, with us. They dug a pit, built a fire, and cooked the food for us. It was such a kind gesture that even though it caused us to leave 1.5 hours late (making me quite a bit late to class at the university) we handled the situation in a peruvian manner, not worrying about time but about the people, the kindness of the gesture, and food.

The generousity I see as these people will do anything to help out a neighbor ("vecino") and will give anything and everything they have astounds me. They continue to demonstrate that those who have hoard, and those who have not give. The notion of giving when one can and that one will never be in need, continues to be reenforced in my mind each day that I go. I am amazed at how much the people of Oasis, Villa El Salvador a sector that just 4 years ago was desert and now is sprawling in homes have taught me and will continue to do. Although they are not rich monetarily they are rich in spirit.

Food and Health...

Despite the many wonderful things I've been able to enjoy in Peru, I've also had my bouts of illnesses, all or nearly all quite-likely to things I have consumed. Some may consider it vulgar or impropper to discuss digestive issues, but for me as well as many other exchange students, it has become a common topic of discussion.

In general, Peruvians tend to pride themselves on their food (however as discussed in my social Peruvian reality class, many people especially children under the age of 5 suffer from malnutrition). The staple in the Peruvian diet is rice. Most people consume this product which was introduced to the country as a result Chinese immigration more than 150 years ago. This leads to the majority of the population having a little bit of a belly, even those who are skinny have a gut. I find it humorous when I am served a meal, with potatoes as a side dish, rice as a side dish, and a giant heep of noodles along with a salad and soup! It seems like multiple meals to me with the portions out of control. Peru is a country extremely rich in a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, however meat is present in almost every dish. This is frustrating sometimes as a vegetarian; however, one of the things that I find most aggrivating is that most people cannot grasp the idea of not eating meat and don't understand that vegetarians eat more than "just vegetables". I've had numerous conversations in which I have been asked questions along these lines: "So you're vegetarian. That means you don't eat meat? So you eat chicken right? No? But surely you eat pig? Oh I see. But guinea pigs? They're really healthy, you know. Fish? Wow, you eat nothing but vegetables. I would die!"

Although some foods are different and have a different flavor, it seems that one would adjust rather quickly to the food. I like much of it, but other things needed a bit of adjusting. I wasn't fond of the cup of vegetable oil dumped on top of my salad at ever meal as a salad dressing or the heap of mayonaise that accompanies many dishes.

Interestingly enough, after all this discussion about food, I must say that food care sometimes seems to be lacking, such as always storying eggs at room temperature even when it is 80 degrees is something that struck me as something that should maybe be changed. Also, food is rarely covered when placed in a refrigerator, allowing it to dry out quickly or diffuse its scent to other foods. Water is of course boiled, which is a good thing.

As I mentioned before, I've had my fair share of digestive related sicknesses. I have recently recovered from my most serious one. I would like to think that after being here for several months, I would not get sick anymore, but that is not the case. I do not believe that it is an issue of diet change, as to one of bacteria and viruses that foods can contain. I literally slept nearly a week of my life away, between going to different doctors and the ER. Among various issues, I suffered from swollen intestines which were possibly thought to be the somewhat common result of infection by salmonella, e coli, or brucelosis. After several blood tests, it was determined that I didn't have any of these bacteria in my system and that I had probably gotten sick from a virus or parasite from some food that was not well washed or was spoiled. I am still amazed at how non-chalantly the doctor said, what the problem may have been and did not seem concerned.

Also, I find it interesting that the majority of the time when someone is sick, someone asks if it is the stomach or if it was the food, and the expected and probable answer is yes. Unfortunately, sometimes these germs take the enjoyment out of trying new foods.

Machu Picchu and the vicinity...

This weekend I traveled to Cuzco with the other exchange students from my program. It was a quick trip, but I suppose we saw the essentials.

Thursday morning we flew out of Lima with Peruvian Airlines. After arriving in Cusco, we went to our hotel where we relaxed for a little while, allowing our bodies to adjust to the change in altitude. We went from sea level to about 3400 meters above sea level (or 10,800 ft). Most of us did not have any problems adjusting.
Later that afternoon, Madeleine, Maya, and I visited the cathedral which has 2 churches also attached. The interiors of all three were excessively ornate. Although they are beautiful, I think it is a shame that the Spanish had no regard for history and built the churches over an Incan temple.
In the evening we went to a lecture by a man who owns a museum of more than 400 different instruments native to Peru. He then performed for us playing many different instruments and not even pausing when he switched. Very talented!
For supper, several of us went to a restaurant where we were serenaded by a group playing traditional Andean music, which was a lot of fun.

On Friday, we saw a variety of sites in the Cusco-area with Incan ruins. (Roughly translated Cuzco means the belly button of the world...because as the capital city it was the center of the Incan world.) Sacsaywayman, an old battle field and place where young men accomplished difficult intellectual and physical challenges to become accepted members of their society. The rocks are enormous and intricately cut and pieced together. Interestingly enough some of them form shapes such as that of a llama and a snake. We visited several other sites and artisan markets. One of my favorite things was going for a hike/walk to some ruins where we were able to see an Incan temple of the sun. On this walk, we walke along a terrace, went through a tunnel and went up and down steps. It sprinkled a bit but was overall pleasant and the view was extremely rewarding. For some inexplicable reason, on all the hikes or walks I've been on in Peru even those very near precipices, I have not been scared of falling...maybe I've been miraculously cured of my fear of heights :) Later in the evening we went to Chinchero, the highest point in the region, where we visited an old church in which had both traditional aspects of the Catholic church and also aspects that were created as a compromise by the indigenous peoples who converted to Christianity. This area was pretty...but cold!

Machu Pichu and Intipunko were the highlights of the day! We traveled from Cuzco 82 km to a train station by van, because this part of the railway is still unsafe to use because of the damage caused by the rains in January. From their we took an extremely fancy and luxurious train ride to Agua Calientes. This train even had skylights! The route led us along a river where we had a beautiful view of the blue sky, mountains, and jungle-like vegetation. After arriving in Agua Calientes, we took a bus to Machu Picchu. It was amazing. There is a certain energy that radiates from these ruins...an energy that one feels because of its natural beauty and tranquility and also the mystery and awe about its creation. After taking a guided tour and learning many interesting things about the site's discovery and theories about the Incan lifestyle there, we had time to explore on our own. Several of us (probably about 9) hiked to Intipunku (the Sun Gate). This was a simple hike (the very last leg of the Incan trail leading to Machu Picchu) and allowed us to see the ruins from a different angle; from another mountain.

We returned to Lima yesterday... and arrived back to find the sun shining. This was a pleasant surprise. I wish we'd had more time to get to know more sites in the area and spend more time at the ruins, but I'm very thankful have gotten to go there and see the beauty and mysteries that this land has to offer.


Overlooking the Sacred Valley of the Incas


Chinchero


Machu Picchu

Dances

Over the past 2 weeks I've gotten to watch several different kinds of dances. One evening, the exchange students from our program went to a restaurant where we saw various dances traditional to different regions of Peru. A few of these included Marinera, Tondero, and dancers who chase each other with a candle and try to catch a piece of cloth on the other on fire. The latter was extremely humorous to watch. My favorite of the evening was the danza de los tijeras (scissor dance). It could best be summed up as Andean break dancers with scissors and colorful costumes who continue to preserve the routines that supposedly contain magical powers because of a pact made with the devil.

This last weekend Annie and I went to watch the Russian Ballet. It was gorgeous. The dancers' wardrobes were elaborate and very neat. One of my favorites was a red outfit that reminded me of the princess Jasmine's clothing...but soo much cooler :)


Scissor Dancers

Palacala

Last weekend, Annie and I left our homes at about 6 am to go on a hike to a waterfall in the provincial Lima. It took us a while to get there. We weren't sure where to find the Combis and Cústers heading to the Museum of Art where we could find more headed for Chosica, so we decided to walk a ways to a place where we knew they went by. Once we were finally on our way towards Chosica, our Cúster broke down and we had to get on another one. The cobrador (money collecter) wanted to charge us more, but we were not ignorant enough to pay again.

After taking 4 cústers and a moto-taxi to get to Surco, we began our hike. We spent 7 hours absorbing the glorious sun, gorgeous Peruvian countryside and foothills of the Andes, as well as breathing fresh air! Along the way we met two other hikers who waited at the top for us and went all the way back down with us. One of them had formerly been a student at La Católica, where we are going. The way back down was definitely rough on the knees considering our ascent of approximately 700m. It was an excellent day and wonderful to get out of the city!

May 1-2

This weekend I've spent in and near Lima. Yesterday, a group of exchange students from my program and I went swimming with sea lions. It was a neat experience. We went to the Islas Palominas. After a relaxing ride out to the islands, I wriggled my way into an already wet wet-suit. After having my life-jacket secured I jumped into the extremely cold ocean water! I had expected it to be cool, but was a bit shocked by the frigid temperature. There were tons o sea lions of varying sizes and colors, but all seemed to share the same stench and loud barking voice. One of the sea lions touched me, which I wasn't a huge fan of, because they seemed a bit scary with their enourmous mouths and I wasn't so sure about swimming with creatures bigger than me.

This morning I ran a half-marathon through San Isidro and San Borja (sections of Lima). It was a lot of fun. There were bands playing at a few places and tons of people. There were 8,000 participants in this mornings races, which were hosted by Adidas. There was a 42k, 21k, and 10k. If I'm correct this is the 2nd largest marathon event in Latin America. It took me 5 minutes to pass under the timers to start after being herded down the street with thousands of other people. I think I was closer to the front than the back, so I wonder how long it took those people to cross the starting line. The first 5k were really tough to move during, because we were packed like sardines and everyone kept tripping over one another or slowing way down to avoid collisions. I was really impressed with the organization of the event and am really thankful for four friends who came out to cheer me on at 3 different locations.

This next week, we have mid-terms so definitely have some studying to do, especially for my anthropology and film classes. All in all, it's been a great weekend.